Heat is what will ultimately kill any engine.the misconception starts with most owners starting out with 'i want more power', and focusing on how to get the numbers.and thinking a water cooled engine will keep itself in check, heat wise, no matter what.occasionally you see upgrades to radiators, some 'water wetter', stuff like that.but essentially coolant is only a portion of what needs to be cooling the engine when driven hard. The best way to think of any 'performance' engine's life expectancy is from the heat direction, only exception being ignition timing.which is only partially heat related.but fuel tuning is 100% heat related, that is exactly why it needs control. Just because a car puts down 500whp for a couple dyno runs doesn't mean it will run for 100k miles like a stock engine is intended to do.Īll true.save a rotary engine.those can be expertly tuned, make great power, and last for 100k.yet a single ping can send it sideways out of the front of the car.well not that really, but ruin the apex seals instantly and its over.even though there was no previous damage leading up to the failure. I think people make the mistake of thinking there is one HP limit for the rods, but the limits are often a factor of repeated stress. I believe most failures could be prevented, but there is definitely a stress limit to our internals. The key is to tune the car properly while monitoring temps and knock. Something has to give, and it is either the con-rod or the piston itself. When this happens the piston gets the full force of the combustion pushing down on it while the entire momentum of the car is pushing the opposite direction. The heat can cause the gas/air mixture to burn improperly and in the catastrophic case, it burns before the spark. The hotter the intake air, the more dangerous it is. If the car intake has more pressure but producing the same power (assuming good tuning), then that means the intake air is hotter. The reason is because of the old PV=nRT ideal gas law. However, a car making 220whp at 8psi is much safer than one at 10 or 12psi. The extra PSI in the intake just means more air and more fuel to burn and more pressure during combustion. The pressure seen by the intake, heads and cylinder during intake is negligible compared to the pressure seen during combustion. The car is awesome, and the turbocharger is a tone of fun, but I shouldn't have to be scared of restarting the car to come to a stop.This is a tricky question. I really hope you guys can help because it's been a real problem for me, and it stresses me out and I cannot get the full riding experience out of my Protege. So I thought I would come to Mazda, and Mazdaspeed Protege experts for my problem. I don't know what's causing this problem, maybe it's the idle air control valve, but I am so unsure as the "internet" has said so many things. I've taken the car to 3 different mechanics and none of them have an answer for the "DVI" problem, as they've never seen it before. The check engine light also says some called "distance variable inertia" or something like that. I have a check engine light on for an O2 censor which I have replaced and the light remains on. The car has a normal idle at a stand still, and this problem doesn't happen when I'm going about under 20 MPH but anything above or so will kill the engine and make me restart. This problem isn't a huge deal in that circumstance, but if you need to hold the clutch while taking a turn in order to slow yourself and take yourself out of gear, you would have to step on the clutch and the car will die, resulting in the loss of power steering which is Dangerous. This is a problem when getting off the highway and I need to slow down quickly so I would step on the clutch and use my brake, but the car wil die and when I do come to a stop the car will have to be started again. The car will continue to roll because the clutch is in, and it will start back up if I release the clutch (pretty much a push start just kicking the engine over). The car isn't stalling and jolting, the clutch initiates as it properly should, but the battery and oil light come on and the engine stops. I bought my Mazdaspeed Protege a couple months back and I've had a reoccurring problem where every time I I use my clutch the car just dies.
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